Quest of the West: Bhavnagar

Summer of ’16. I had secured a summer research fellowship, taking me to this corner of India called Bhavnagar. Bhavnagar is located in the western Indian state of Gujarat beside the Gulf of Khambhat. Initially, it was much thrilling to know that I would be travelling to the 13th Indian state on my list but it subsided after talking to people on various forums as it was not among the touristy spots. Diu, Palitana, Gir, Somnath and a few other places were only easily accessible. Still clinging to my hope this is what I found there. This is not an exhaustive bucket list but only a few that I could cover during my 10-week stay.

Places to visit

Gam Talav: Gam Talav or simply ‘talav’ is the centre point of the Bhavnagar city. The market, railway station, bus stand and other amenities surround this water body.

Gaurishankar Lake: A huge water body on the outskirts of the city constructed in the late 1800s to provide water to the city. Even today it supports its purpose apart from growing to a site of tourist spot with a boating facility. A temple along the bund dedicated to Lord Shiva can also be found here.

Victoriya Park: Morning walk, evening stroll or just spend some time within greenery, this is a perfect place within the premises of the city. In this nature park, one may encounter a deer or peacock enjoying the day alongside you. A small lake in the park is host to several birds.

Takhteshwar Temple: This is a small white marble temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple is located atop a hillock and dates back to 1893. The temple courtyard offers a panoramic view of the Bhavnagar city that extends to the Gulf of Khambhat.

Nishkalankh Mahadev: A temple under the sea. Accessible only during low tide, the Nishkalankh Mahadev is said to date back to the Mahabharata era when the Pandavas came here to seek redemption for killing their own blood. The temple does not consist of any building but rather four Shivlings on a raised platform around 1.5km away from the actual beach. During high tide only a lighthouse and flags mounted on it are visible. Prayers are offered when the water level goes down.

Kuda Beach: Along the Nishkalankh Mahadev lies the Kuda beach. As Bhavnagar is located in the Gulf of Khambhat region no fresh water can be expected here. Still, a beach is a beach.

Shopping destination

Gam Talav area has the central local market. Himalaya Mall located beside Victoria Park is the destination if you are looking for brands. The mall also has a gaming zone and movies. Apart from these, the market is almost spread throughout the city.

Food

Gujarati thali: An authenticated local food is a must when you are in a new state.

Dabeli: This light snack available in Gujarat is the cousin to the famous vada pav of Mumbai. Instead of the delicious vada, dabeli stuffed with mashed potatoes with added nuts while the bread may be smeared with butter or sweet chutney. It’s available almost everywhere and each stall adds its own twist to it.

Jain hot dog: A modified version of the US-origin meat-based original hot dog comes as fully vegetarian to keep up with the customs of Jains. Contains 0 meat, onion or garlic but is stuffed with ample veggies and topped with a generous portion of cheese. Tastes best with sweet tomato chutney or pudina chutney.

Pani puri: Pani puri is easily available across India but what’s different here is the different pain flavours they offer. Precisely 7 for ₹10. You may have all or one. It’s definitely your choice.

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A trip to Hyderabad-Secunderabad

Charminar

The year 2016 began for me in a new place — Secunderabad. I was here on medical tourism. After the medical requirements were fulfilled it was time to address tourism. I was here for nine days and this is Hyderabad-Secunderabad in my view.

Birla Mandir: Located on a hillock near the Hussain Sagar Lake, this white marble temple of Lord Venkateshwara offers a wonderful glimpse of the city settled around the lake. Sit here in peace and cherish God’s eye view of the buzzing city.

Birla Planetarium and Museum: Dinosaur skeleton, gold postal stamps, jewel-studded wall hanging and beautiful porcelain dolls this was all that attracted me here.

Lumbini Park & Buddha Monolith: To reach the tallest monolith of Buddha you have to set sail here. But there’s much more to do. The laser show is said to be one of the best (and I could not see it). The water cascades the rides — this is a place to hang out with friends & family.

KBR National Park: A national park within a city. They don’t offer a safari but you can take a jog/walk in the morning or evening. Peacocks rule this park.

Charminar: The pride of Hyderabad. Climb along the spiral staircase of the minarets to the first floor and get a view of the grand old city.

Mecca Masjid: The 17th century mosque.

Golconda Fort: The history of Deccan lies here and it comes alive every evening with the ghazals of Jagjit Singh and the voice of Amitabh Bachchan during the light and sound show. Advice: Don’t miss it.

Qutub Shahi Tombs: The king and his men rest in peace here. (P.S.: As of January 2016 a major portion of the park was under renovation and restricted to the public).

Nizam’s museum: The residence turned museum of the Nizam is a collection of gold and silver. But what’s more fascinating is the 176-foot-long two-level wardrobe. I just wonder if today somebody has a personal wardrobe of this size. The Nizam is said to have worn each costume only once and the officials here are trying to recollect them based on photographs to maintain authenticity.

Chowmahalla Palace: Another palatial museum from the Nizams. The best in the collection is the Rolls Royce Silver Ghost which is said to have done less than 356 miles. The grand Khilawat Mubarak or Durbar Hall with its chandeliers is just wow. The Khilwat clock has been running for more than 100 years with the most accuracy.

Salar Jung Museum: The largest one-man collection of antiques. My favourite: walking sticks, veiled Rebecca.

Sudha Car Museum: Truly the wackiest car museum as described by Guinness World Records. Cars in the shape of pens, pencils, desktops, books, Camera, football, bed and even condoms. The museum is the home to the world’s largest tricycle. The museum also houses a few vintage cars.

Additional locations:

LVPEI: Probably one of the best eye care facilities in India.

University of Hyderabad: It has its own reputation. It is listed among the top universities in Asia.

Check out the pictures from this trip on Instagram.

In search of Chingrikhali Fort

The ruins of the fort

Date: 15th April 2015

Nobo Borsho and a holiday. What can be better than starting a ‘notun bocchor’ with a visit to a new place? After a few minutes of googling about a day trip from Kolkata, we zeroed it to Diamond Harbour. It is located about 50 km away from the city in the South 24 Parganas district along the river Hoogly.

A fort built here in the 16th century was what actually intrigued me. Also known as the Diamond Harbour Fort, the Chingrikhali Fort is reminiscent of the Portuguese pirates who built this fort during the 1600s when they conquered the Diamond Harbour and made it their base for their network of conquered countries. The Portuguese utilized this fort to stay as well as a warehouse for all their trade commodities and ammunition. The fort is believed to have had 7 underground rooms and 5 cannons.

Our journey to Diamond Harbour started from Madhyamgram. On the first leg of our journey, a 40-minute ride in a stuffed sub-urban train brought took us to Sealdah. We were to change our train here to continue our journey. As the train started moving away from the city the grey buildings in the horizon behind and the green fields ahead were a real escape to the eye. After about 1 hour 40 minutes, passing through various stations we finally reached our destination. After inquiring about what our next course of action should be, we decided to take a rickshaw van to the fort. The Purana Kella, as the fort was known locally is a few minute ride from the railway station. The van dropped us at the entrance of a sort of field and we were to walk from here. Overlooking the river, this field would be a player’s delight. At the entrance, we were directed to go across the field and then pass through a broken wall to reach the fort. We marched on with full excitement but with each step, our hopes were grounded. What we could see in front was just ruins. The fort that once stood here with full strength was being washed away by the ever-widening river.

References:
Wikipedia
Week end destinations
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